Traveling to Périgueux by train was a serene experience, and securing a window seat was essential for me to fully appreciate the breathtaking scenery. The rolling hills, ancient rock houses, grazing animals, and stunning vistas of the Dordogne River all blended together to create a picturesque journey. Opting for a second-class ticket meant more frequent stops, but this was part of the charm. Each stop offered a glimpse into local life, sparking curiosity about the people getting on and off: where were they headed, what did they do, and what was their life like in these quaint towns? The onboard Wi-Fi allowed me to quickly research each station, discovering hidden gems that might warrant a future visit. This journey wasn’t just about reaching a destination; it was an immersive experience that connected me with the heart of rural France.
As our train approached Périgueux, the city’s historical charm unfolded before my eyes through the window. Disembarking, I was swept up in a sea of travelers, my roller backpack and backpack in tow. Stepping aside, I consulted my phone’s map, and when I looked up, I was surprised to find myself alone on the platform. It’s incredible how quickly locals navigate their surroundings!
Armed with my trusty “mini handheld computer” (as I like to call my smartphone), I set off on a 20-minute walk to my Airbnb. The cobblestone streets, while charming, proved a bit challenging for my roller bag. After a few minutes of clattering along, I decided to spare the town the announcement of my arrival. Instead, I opted for what I call the “turtle method” – converting my roller bag into a backpack and wearing it on my front with my other pack on my back. I may have looked a bit silly, but at least I wasn’t making a noisy entrance!
Before continuing, I decided to do what feels quintessentially French: pause for a moment to enjoy a coffee. Feeling tired and thirsty, with two hours to spare before check-in, it was the perfect chance to relax and soak up the local ambiance.
What a perfect sunny day! Sitting in the town square in front of the majestic Saint-Front Cathedral, I indulged in the joy of people-watching. The vibrant atmosphere and stunning backdrop couldn’t have provided a more delightful start to my four-day adventure in Périgueux.
my medieval abode
I settled in the heart of Périgueux’s medieval center, a treasure trove of rich historic architecture and serene streets. The area is a labyrinth of interconnected alleys and hidden passages, with half-timbered houses standing as silent guardians of its layered past.
As I approached my Airbnb, I was delighted to discover that I would be staying in a medieval building. It took a moment to decipher the door’s mechanism; the instructions seemed straightforward online, but proved more challenging in practice. After a brief struggle, I finally managed to open the door, and what I found inside more than made up for the initial frustration. Inside, I discovered a harmonious blend of modern amenities and ancient charm, with exposed rock in the entrance and windows. The compact but spotless bathroom boasted excellent lighting, while the well-equipped kitchen and split-level heating system promised a warm and cozy stay. The bed was inviting, adorned with crisp white and soft sheets. A bonus was its proximity to the famous house on stilts, adding to the enchantment of my stay
unexpected friendship
Through preliminary research and conversations with locals, I observed that the French, while kind and welcoming, tend to be more reserved when forming friendships. Unlike in Mexico, for example, where a new acquaintance might quickly invite you to dinner or a family gathering, the French approach to friendship is more gradual. My limited grasp of the language further hampered my ability to engage in meaningful conversations.
This solitude, however, lent itself to reflection and a heightened awareness of my surroundings. I delighted in watching the streets and cafés fill up at certain times of the day. My goal was to follow this local rhythm, but I often found myself out of sync – up too late to witness the morning bustle and resting when locals began to surface. After long days of walking and sightseeing, I was often exhausted just as everyone else was heading out for dinner and evening strolls in the town square.
Despite these challenges, the experience of immersing myself in Perigueux’s daily life, even as an observer, was invaluable. It offered a unique perspective on the city’s culture and the subtle nuances of French social life.
And then…
Just when I thought making friends wasn’t on the agenda for my visit to Perigueux, I met Sarah. While browsing the shelves of a local market for butter, I found myself confused about whether it was salted or unsalted—a detail I hadn’t covered in my French lessons. A lovely young woman approached me and asked if I needed help. I attempted to communicate in my broken French, accompanied by animated gestures and even some moo sounds, which prompted her to switch to English. We both laughed at the situation’s absurdity, and I felt slightly ridiculous.
Sarah helped me choose the right butter and invited me for coffee and to meet her friend Blanch. I eagerly accepted the invitation.
Coffee with new acquaintances can sometimes be awkward, but this meeting was different. Sarah and Blanch were delightful and keen to practice their English. Although I would have loved to practice my French, I’m sure Sarah remembered my earlier attempts at the market and graciously spared me from further embarrassment. The encounter was warm and enjoyable, and I was grateful for the unexpected connection.
discovery walk
The sun was shining bright, and I knew it would be an amazing day for exploring. I laced my walking shoes and set off into the ancient streets, feeling like I was stepping back in time.
As I wandered, I headed toward the Vesunna Temple, which is one of the city’s coolest historical sites. It’s this incredible blend of Celtic and Roman styles; you can feel the history radiating from it. The temple was built between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD and was dedicated to the goddess Vesunna, a protector of the local Celtic tribe, the Petrocorii.
I walked around the temple and archaeological park. It’s not exactly a garden, but it’s really peaceful, with all the ancient ruins mixed in with nature—a perfect clandestine meeting spot (I noticed). I also caught a glimpse of the Vesunna Museum through its big windows, even though it was closed. This will be a must-see attraction on my next visit here. The museum is housed in a contemporary building designed by Jean Nouvel, built around the remains of an ancient Roman domus.
Later, I decided to explore the Château de Commarque, which mostly ruins but gives you a real feel for the medieval past.
But here’s the funny part: while I was taking photos of one of the historic buildings, I followed a group of ladies into what turned out to be a senior citizens’ game club! It was this beautiful old building with stone walls and vaulted ceilings, but I quickly realized I wasn’t supposed to be there. They were super friendly, but I promptly exited after snapping a few photos. It was definitely a memorable experience.
another gorgeous day, another local market
What would a quaint medieval town be without its bustling local market? Périgueux’s market is brimming with vibrant colors and tantalizing scents. On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, the heart of the historic center transforms into a feast for the senses. From fresh fruits and vegetables to nuts, strawberries, and foie gras, the stalls overflow with the best of Périgord’s local produce. The market stretches across charming squares like Place du Coderc and Place Saint-Louis, weaving through narrow streets lined with butchers, pastry shops, bakeries, cafés, and bars.
As I wandered through the market, I couldn’t resist stopping at a butcher’s stall to pick up a couple of steaks for dinner. I had practiced ordering in French beforehand, but my accent still needs some work! The butcher was patient as I stumbled through my phrases, though I eventually resorted to hand gestures. Then he asked if I spoke Spanish—thank goodness I do! We switched languages, and I managed to complete my order with a smile and a sigh of relief.
Périgueux’s market isn’t just about shopping—it’s about connecting with the region’s soul. The cheerful energy of the vendors and customers mades it an unforgettable experience. And the stakes turned out amazing!
Shhhh it's sunday
Sundays in Périgueux, like many parts of France, are typically quiet, with only the occasional bustle around coffee shops and restaurants. However, this tranquility provided the perfect opportunity to explore without the crowds. I took advantage of the peaceful morning to delve deeper into the old medieval streets and alleys, marveling at how closely the homes were built together. It was fascinating to see how one building often blocked another from receiving direct sunlight, making me think that if I were to live here, a top-floor apartment or penthouse would be ideal for capturing the sun’s warmth. Large windows would be a must to let in as much natural light as possible.
As I wandered, I noticed signs that suggested Périgueux experiences a fair amount of rainfall—green moss covered many surfaces, and there was a slight scent of mildew in the air. The stone homes, while beautiful, must have been quite cold and lacked insulation, especially during the colder months. It made me appreciate the comforts of modern central heating and air conditioning. I couldn’t help but wonder how people managed to keep warm and cozy in these homes centuries ago.
Despite the challenges of living in such conditions, the charm is undeniable. The narrow alleys and closely packed houses create a sense of community. As I explored, I felt like I was stepping back in time, especially when I entered the magnificent Cathédrale Saint-Front. This UNESCO World Heritage site, part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France, is a must-see for any visitor.
The cathedral’s unique blend of Romanesque and Byzantine architectural styles sets it apart from other French cathedrals. I was in awe that this architectural feat that has endured since the 12th century.
My heart leapt when I noticed the scallop shell on the ground, a symbol guiding pilgrims on their journey to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Having completed the French Route myself in the fall of 2024, this discovery felt particularly poignant. The quiet Sunday morning only added to the enchantment of this ancient city, allowing me to fully appreciate the cathedral’s majestic presence and its role in centuries of pilgrimage.
my last day here
My final day in Périgueux was mainly spent indulging in one of my favorite pastimes: window shopping. This activity is free and offers endless entertainment as long as I can resist the temptation to make a purchase. However, the allure was certainly there, with beautifully dressed window displays tempting me at every turn.
The confectionery shops were particularly enticing, with rows of delicately placed chocolates and pastries that seemed to beckon me to taste them. The pastel-colored macarons were a visual feast, and I couldn’t help but be drawn to their vibrant hues. And then, of course, there were the croissants and pain au chocolat—flaky, buttery, and irresistible.
Beyond the culinary delights, the streets were lined with trinket shops, souvenir stores, and antique boutiques. Each one offered a treasure trove of unique items and historical artifacts, making it impossible to feel bored in such a charming setting. If anyone finds themselves bored in a place like Périgueux, it’s not the city lacking—it’s the visitor’s imagination. This medieval town is a haven for those who love history, culture, and life’s simple pleasures.
One of the most surprising discoveries during my visit to Périgueux was the Musée Militaire du Périgord. I often find myself drawn to the architecture and interior of old buildings, but this museum was more than just a beautiful space—it was incredibly interesting. Housed in a historic structure, the museum is a treasure trove of military memorabilia from around the world. The walls were literally filled from floor to ceiling with artifacts, uniforms, and equipment, offering a comprehensive look at military history.
What struck me was the extent of the collection, which spans centuries and includes items from various conflicts. The museum is run by volunteers and admission only a few euros, making it an absolute bargain for the wealth of history and insight it provides. This was a unique experience, and definitely worth a visit. It’s a hidden gem in the heart of Périgueux that will leave you with a deeper understanding of the region’s role in global military history.
Périgueux’s rich history, which stretches back to Roman times, is palpable in every corner of the city. From the remnants of the Roman Vesunna Temple, a testament to the city’s ancient past, to the majestic 12th-century Cathédrale Saint-Front. I am thrilled that I chose Périgueux as my first destination in the enchanting Dordogne region, and I eagerly look forward to returning, for there is still so much to discover and rediscover in this captivating city.
next: Les eyzied-de-tayac
As I made my way to the train station, bound for Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, I decided to take a chance and roll my luggage over the cobblestone streets, determined to save my back from any potential strain. Although I successfully reached the station, my plan didn’t quite go as smoothly as I had hoped—my roller bag’s handle broke along the way! I found myself in “turtle mode,” but even this unexpected setback couldn’t dampen my excitement about visiting the charming village of Les Eyzies. The prospect of exploring this tiny, prehistoric gem, nestled in the heart of the Vézère Valley, was too thrilling to let a little mishap like a broken bag handle get in the way.
How about you?
Where is your next destination?