While enjoying coffee with Sarah and Blanch in Périgueux, I asked them for suggestions on my next destination. “Any recommendations for a nearby town?” I inquired. Sarah’s eyes lit up as she mentioned her favorite spot in the Dordogne region: Les Eyzies. The name intrigued me immediately, and I wanted to hear more. Sarah explained that this small village is unique for its rich prehistoric heritage, dramatic buildings nestled into cliffs and rocks, and ancient cave drawings that tell stories of early human life. Her enthusiasm was contagious, and I found myself captivated.
Later that evening, back in my room, I began researching accommodations in Les Eyzies. With so much to explore, I decided on a two-night stay. Conveniently, the village is just a short train ride from Périgueux, making it an easy addition to my itinerary. Little did I know, Les Eyzies would offer not only stunning natural beauty but also a fascinating journey into humanity’s distant past.
I arrived a couple of hours early for check-in, so I decided to grab a bite at a charming restaurant across the street from my scheduled accommodations. Although it was low tourist season in February, I was prepared for limited options in terms of restaurants and tourist spots. This quaint town, with what seemed like a single main thoroughfare, was small but full of charm. From my outdoor seat, I enjoyed a breathtaking view, feeling as though I was dining beneath the massive cliff rocks that towered above. On this warm, sunny day, I savored the fresh air and took a moment to contemplate my next steps: checking into my room and exploring the museum.
National Museum of Prehistory
As I took in Les Eyzies from the restaurant’s outdoor dining, the allure of ancient history and the majestic backdrop of a castle-like structure beckoned me to explore the National Prehistory Museum. I couldn’t wait to delve into the world of prehistoric wonders, and the museum truly exceeded my expectations. Nestled within a former castle built atop a prehistoric site, this museum is home to an astonishing collection of over 18,000 artifacts, each telling a story of human life from the earliest times. The exhibits beautifully showcase ancient tools, art, and burial practices, offering a profound educational journey through the ages.
What made my visit even more special was the tranquility of the museum during February, a time when tourism is low. Without the crowds, I could take my time to absorb every detail, truly immersing myself in the rich history that surrounded me. It was a perfect blend of solitude and discovery, allowing me to connect deeply with the ancient world on display.
THE FRENCH DO NOT WALK AROUND WITH A BAguette and a to go cup!
This morning, I woke up with a craving for coffee and baguettes. As an American, I’m accustomed to taking my coffee on the go, often with a twist – I add butter instead of cream, a practice known as “bullet coffee.” This approach is quite different from the French tradition of savoring coffee as a leisurely ritual. In France, coffee is often enjoyed seated at a café, where time stands still as you sip and savor each moment.
I prepared my coffee and set out into the quiet streets of Les Eyzies, heading to the boulangerie for a fresh baguette. As I walked, I encountered a couple of locals who couldn’t help but notice my to-go cup. They smiled knowingly, perhaps amused by my American habit of rushing through life, even when it comes to something as sacred as coffee. In France, coffee is a moment to pause, not rush.
Upon arriving at the boulangerie, I ordered a baguette, proud that the merchant understood my request despite my imperfect pronunciation. She kindly corrected me, which I appreciated, as it’s always a learning opportunity. I discovered an interesting nuance in French – when ordering a pastry, it’s feminine, but a baguette is masculine. So, it’s “une pâtisserie” versus “un baguette.” This small distinction made me realize how much I still have to learn about the language and culture.
As I walked away with my baguette, I couldn’t help but feel a bit like a stereotypical American tourist – always on the go, even in the tranquil setting of Les Eyzies. Yet, embracing these cultural differences is part of the travel experience, and I’m grateful for the opportunity to explore and learn.
Beyond its archaeological significance, Les Eyzies boasts breathtaking landscapes with cliffs and lush greenery along the Vézère River—the perfect place to finish the baguette and pastries. I remember Sarah mentioning that one of the reasons Les Eyzies is one of her favorite places is the numerous hiking trails that allow her to explore its natural beauty while taking in views of the dramatic cliffs that dominate the village.
COOL RESTAURANT, SURPRISE FARE
LA VILLA DU 15 – Chambres indépendantes & autonomes du restaurant La Maison – clim et piscine chauffée
During my stay at La Villa du 15, I enjoyed dining at Restaurant La Maison, conveniently located downstairs from my cozy attic room overlooking the beautiful river. The restaurant itself was a charming, avant-garde space with a quiet, cozy atmosphere that immediately drew me in. The decor was quirky and inviting, setting the tone for a unique dining experience.
As I perused the menu, I realized I couldn’t quite decipher the French descriptions. Instead of reaching for Google, I decided to take a culinary leap of faith and randomly select a dish. This spontaneous choice turned out to be a feast for both the eyes and the palate. When the dish arrived, I discovered it was a hearty serving of hearts and livers in a rich gravy. Fortunately, I have a fondness for organ meats, which made this unexpected surprise a true delight.
The combination of flavors and textures was a party in my mouth, and I was thrilled by the bold flavors and presentation. Dining at Restaurant La Maison was not just about the food; it was an immersive experience that blended the charm of its setting with the excitement of culinary discovery.
small but worth the visit
I could have easily seen everything in Les Eyzies in just one day, but staying for two allowed me to truly enjoy and relax without feeling rushed. When you’re traveling for extended periods, hopping from town to town, that extra day can make all the difference. It gives you time to recover from the train rides, long walks with luggage, and the general hustle of travel. It’s a small gift to yourself—a chance to slow down, breathe, and savor the experience.
I would absolutely come back to this fascinating little town. I imagine that during tourist season, Les Eyzies transforms into a bustling and energetic hub. Shops, cafés, and restaurants would be buzzing with life, and visitors would be out preparing for adventures like hiking the scenic trails or kayaking along the Vézère River. It would be interesting to see this vibrant side of the town, contrasting with the peaceful quiet I experienced in February.
Les Eyzies is not just a destination for those intrigued by prehistory; it also offers a glimpse into medieval history and breathtaking natural scenery. With its rich cultural heritage and array of attractions, it’s an essential stop for anyone exploring the Dordogne region. Whether you’re hiking through its stunning landscapes or immersing yourself in the prehistoric past at the museum, Les Eyzies promises a unique experience that beautifully combines history with nature. And if you’re like me—someone who values both adventure and moments of stillness—you’ll appreciate taking just a little extra time to soak it all in.
next: sarlat-la-canéda
Stay tuned for my upcoming blog post about Sarlat-la-Canéda, a medieval gem in the heart of France’s Dordogne Valley. This enchanting town is a history, architecture, and gastronomy treasure trove, offering a unique blend of ancient charm and modern allure. I am so excited about this next village I plan to stay four days!
How about you?
Do you prefer a bustling city, a quiet village, or an interesting prehistoric town?