When I retired early, I knew I would embark on a solo travel journey, challenging myself to explore the world independently. As a middle-aged woman and novice traveler, I mentally prepared for potential obstacles, but numerous surprises still struck me. The realities of solo travel, unexpected bouts of loneliness, language barriers, and cultural differences all presented unique challenges. Navigating the waters of discovery while remaining respectful, insightful, and curious proved to be a delicate balance, but one I fully embraced and excited to share.
My adventure began with a month-long trip to France, deliberately planned with minimal scheduling to allow for spontaneity and authentic experiences. This approach, while daunting, opened doors to unexpected encounters. From wandering the streets of Bordeaux, exploring the serene Dordogne Valley, to chasing the sun South in Montpellier, each day brought new insights into both French culture and my own capabilities.
Throughout this trip, I discovered that solo female travel in France is feasible and incredibly enriching. The country’s historic charm, incredible landscape and modern amenities provided a perfect backdrop for self-discovery and cultural immersion. By remaining open and embracing the unexpected, I found that France offered many opportunities for personal growth and unforgettable memories.
February in France is a bit chilly, and it has challenged my tourist experience. Despite the cold, I discovered cities, towns and villages brimming with character and charm, undeterred by the season’s restraints. So far my visits allowed me to immerse myself in the authentic rhythm of local life, without peak-season crowds. The winter landscape, while devoid of the vibrant floral displays often seen in postcards, offered a more intimate glimpse into the city’s true essence.
washington, D.C. to Paris!
From Washington, D.C. to Paris Charles de Gaulle, my journey began. While Paris is beautiful and exciting, I yearned to experience the other side of France—its everyday, less touristy life. I wondered if such an authentic experience existed and if embarking on this adventure alone was the wisest choice. Doubt crept in, but I was determined to press on.
Choosing the train as my mode of travel, I headed straight to the ticket counter at Charles de Gaulle upon landing, seeking a one-way ticket to Bordeaux. The task was somewhat daunting in one of the world’s bigger airports. However, I found comfort in the fact that many people in tourist-heavy destinations often speak multiple languages. My fluency in English and Spanish proved helpful, and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that many French people study both in school.
I made a point to begin each interaction with a simple “Bonjour” or “Bonsoir,” showing initiative in communicating in the local language. This approach seemed to set the stage for patience and graceful assistance from the locals.
An important note for travelers: be mindful of pickpockets. Intercom announcements in various languages frequently warn passengers to be vigilant and keep a close eye on their belongings.
With ticket in hand, I boarded the local train to Montparnasse station in Paris, where I then transferred to the long-distance route to Bordeaux. I’m grateful I boarded early, as luggage storage in second class is limited and operates on a first-come, first-served basis.
As the train pulled out of Paris, I felt a mix of excitement and trepidation. My journey to discover the authentic France, beyond the tourist hotspots, had begun.
2 days in Bordeaux
First Impressions: Petite Paris with a Big Personality. Although neighborhoods around train stations can be a bit rough around the edges, this area is bustling, vibrant, and clean. I sat on a bench outside the station and began searching for hotels in the area using Booking.com for convenience and great prices. I chose Hotel Life Bordeaux Gare-BG located near the Saint Michel Basilica, just a 10-minute walk from the train station. The hotel’s central location made it easy to access many tourist attractions on foot, and the local commuter train was a convenient alternative for those who prefer not to walk. However, I enjoy walking and getting safely lost in the labyrinth of cobbled streets, discovering hidden treasures along the way.
I arrived in the evening, but the darkness didn’t deter me. I felt safe, taking common-sense precautions like staying vigilant, being aware of my surroundings, and trusting my intuition. I followed the paths of families, couples, and groups, which led me to the famous Pont de Pierre. This impressive “stone bridge,” commissioned by Napoleon, boasts 17 arches, a number that, according to legend, corresponds to the letters in Napoleon’s name. It was my first UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The walk to the bridge and across it was magnificent. The rain had left the ground wet, creating breathtaking reflections of the lights. It felt as if I had the bridge all to myself, a surreal and enchanting experience.
no wine for me mercì
I want to get this out of the way: when most people think of Bordeaux, they naturally think of its exceptional, world-renowned wine, and rightly so. However, you don’t have to be a wine connoisseur to appreciate this magnificent city. Bordeaux offers a wealth of experiences beyond its famous wine scene.
Whether you’re interested in history, art, or simply enjoy walking and exploring, Bordeaux has something for everyone. As someone who occasionally enjoys a glass of wine but prefers a cold beer after a long walk, I found plenty of opportunities to satisfy my thirst.
My first day in Bordeaux was a positive experience, filled with the warmth of a sunny day. Walking along the river promenade, I joined locals and tourists alike in strolling, biking, meeting friends, and indulging in some delightful people-watching. The area is dotted with restaurants, bars, and shops that could keep you busy for hours, making it the perfect place to soak up the city’s vibrant atmosphere.
French people typically start their day early, with work beginning around 9:00 a.m. I have not been getting out until late morning, and I have missed the hustle and bustle of the early morning hours.
Lunchtime is especially important and sacred, often lasting up to two hours, with many businesses closing between 12:30 p.m. and 2:00 p.m. The French workday usually ends around 6:00 p.m., followed by dinner between 7:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
The most significant hurdle so far was adjusting to the six-hour time zone difference, which disrupted my natural sleep patterns and daily rhythm; thus, being in sync with the new schedule has been challenging. It’s something to work on, for sure.
local market
One of my favorite experiences when visiting a new city or town is exploring the local food market. These vibrant markets are filled with local goods, flavors, and the rhythms of everyday life. The sound of the fishmonger extolling the freshness of his catch, the enticing aromas of local fruits, and the irresistible pastries all captivate my senses. For me, the market is the perfect spot to immerse myself in local culture. The Marché des Capucins, in particular, is a gem—ideal for both grocery shopping and a delicious breakfast.
The Capucins market hosted its first weekly market in 1749.
Current hours are Tuesday to Friday from 6:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Weekends 5:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m.
Bordeaux is a walker’s paradise for those who love to wander and discover, like me. The city’s pedestrian-friendly streets and rich architectural heritage make it a dream destination for explorers seeking hidden gems and quaint spots.
There are narrow cobbled alleys, expansive pedestrian zones, and stunning architecture. Rue Sainte Catherine is considered the longest pedestrian street in Europe, and the charming pedestrian-only areas provide endless opportunities for sensory exploration where every corner offers a discovery.
Two days only scratch the surface of Bordeaux’s walkable wonderland. I will be back!
While wrapping up my last day in Bordeaux, I started thinking about what to do next. I was cozied up in my hotel room researching and got really drawn to the Dordogne region. It has stunning landscapes and adorable villages, and it’s super easy to get there by train.
I decided to head to Périgueux next. It’s only about an hour and a half from Bordeaux, and it’s just packed with history, culture, and amazing food. Plus, it’s been around for over 2,000 years, so you can imagine how much there is to explore.
Want to come along on this adventure? We’ll stroll through cobblestone streets, check out the incredible Saint-Front Cathedral, and dive into the Roman past at the Vesunna museum. Who knows, you might just start planning your own trip to this hidden gem in southwestern France!
Stay tuned for my Périgueux adventure—it will be full of surprises and unforgettable moments. The best trips are always the ones that lead to unexpected discoveries, right?”
How about you?
When and where was your last unexpected discovery?